Volume 34, Number 4 - Spring 1995
"The Turible Times in the Swamps and the Narrow Escapes from the Swamp Devils"
October 1883 to October 1884 (Part I)
by Charley Hershey, alias Gold Eye, edited by Lynn Morrow
Introduction:
Charley Hershey, a young itinerant peddler from Joplin, Missouri, and his brothers, Austin and Sam, canvassed widely in mining towns in Jasper County, Mo., and neighboring Kansas communities. They peddled housewares and notions, greeting cards and subscriptions, door-to-door. During slow sales they hauled wood and trapped small game around Joplin. Their story in the diary reads as though they sometimes took turns telling their tale.
In 1883-1884 the brothers made journeys down to the upper and lower White River in Arkansas, and then, in 1886 to California, Nevada, Utah and Colorado. Charley occasionally wrote of these travels in a vernacular literary-adventure style emphasizing the picturesque, perhaps hoping to eventually market his tales; much of his narrative though is plain description, embedded in poor grammar and syntax. Locals will quickly notice that the author was a "tourist" by his inexact use of local place names. The original diary and narrative is illustrated with several primitive drawings of their camps and scenes encountered. Charley made these trips as an adolescent, turning nineteen on May 11, 1888.
In 1884 the brothers, attracted by the fame of good hunting in the White River drainages, decided to try fur-trapping. After harrowing and trying circumstances, they determined to try log-rafting. Problems with locals termed Ku Kluxers prompted them to abandon plans and seek refuge in the swamps. They became separated, re-united in Black Rock, Ar., and returned to Joplin via the Kansas City, Fort Scott and Memphis railroad--country skirting the White River regions on the north. Their adventures included problems with law enforcement, acquiring shelter, food and work, and safety. Enthusiasts for dialect and language will need to consult the original manuscript as a good deal of editing has made the text readable for Society members; selected clarifications are indicated in brackets, but many misspellings remain.
Whatever one’s conclusions are about this tale, it is certainly an extraordinary account of young men trying their hand at sales and hoping, as outdoorsmen, to wrest a living from the Ozarks natural resources. The original manuscript is in the Joplin Historical Society’s Hoover Museum with a microfilm copy in the Ozark Collections at the Joint Collection, University of Missouri-Rolla.
Diary/Narrative
Chapter 1—October 1883 and 1884
October 7th: Started for White River about 15 miles out in the direction of Eureka Springs. Found the road going down a valley and the country getting rough and hilly until evening. We found ourselves hemmed in by mountains on all sides. Going up a gap in the mountains, we camped in a gorge at the foot of the mountains. We killed a tarantula or big poisonous spider with body the size of a walnut while hunting a place to camp.
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Next day rain beginning to fall easily. We waited until afternoon when the clouds broke away and we packed up and moved on again down the valley and arriving at White River which we found bright and clear with gravelly bottom and gravelly shoals and high rocky banks going 1 and 112 mile north of Beaver [AR] station.
We camped in white oak timber on hill sloping off to north. Found lots of paw paws just ripe along river bank. At night a heavy thunder storm came up from the north and tore down trees around camp. We jumped up and watched the trees hoping to doge them as they fell. We got through all right but drenched to the skin. A good bit of cedar grows along White River and lots of cedar posts are made for [the] railroad company.
Finding White River not to our notion for trapping, we determined to go back and go to Black River going first to Eureka Springs to see the Famous Health resorting springs.
We found the city among the pine clad hills and branching out through several valleys among the mountains where the houses often have scarcely room to stand and the streets so narrow the sign boards almost reach across [the street]. The streets and pavements or sidewalks [are] so narrow that two men can scarcely pass each other on them; the city is watered with no less than 30 different springs. The principal is the bathing spring which comes out of a vine clad cove in the mountains, cold and delicious of taste.
Many empty houses are to be bought in town and rent is 50 cents to 1.00 per month and house and lot can
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be bought for 5 dollars apiece. We camped on a high pine clad hill overlooking the Famous City. It is quite a lively city and is an oasis in the wilderness.
After staying one week, we retreated out to Seligman going through rain and mist and walking part of the night. At Seligman we took the train to Pierce City, arriving there late in the evening and the night being wet and cool so that going to camp was out of the question.
We went to a hotel and went out and put up our tent the next morning though the weather was still wet and disagreeable. We dried leaves and made a bed and found ourselves passable comfortable.
Stopping a few days here, we started for Springfield canvassing the towns along the road and shipping our trunks by express. After arriving at Springfield, had our trunks hauled out one mile east of town into a fine patch of blackjack timber where we camped haying plenty of dry wood and brush to burn. We built a large square tent with opening in top for the egress of the smoke from our camp fire which we built in the center of the tent.
Staid here about a month canvassing town and fixing up to go trapping. Bought some more traps and a gun and 6 pounds of powder and some shot and caps and while camped here a cyclone came up from the southwest and cut away through the City destroying everything in its path and killing five people and wounding some 30 more tearing down the Catholic Church and numerous other buildings. We happily escaped, being camped several hundred yards to the south of the cyclone track. I started away from Springfield about the first of November.
November 1883
Five miles out from Springfield, we passed a mag-
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nificent spring running a stream of water like a mill race. Camped on banks of this clear stream a little below spring. Night cold and frosty.
Next morning was cold and ice had frozen over the ponds one fourth inch thick. Passed some more springs almost as large as the former running pure cold streams of water from which the stream flew upon the frosty morning air. Crossed the St. James River on railroad bridge at Varne [?]. This river runs remarkably clear water, it being a mountain stream and fed by springs and large enough at this point to run a skiff with ease.
After crossing the river we came to a small station where we traded for some dinner. The country here becomes rough and fine grassy valleys through which run streams of pure water were frequently met with small timber. The road following up one of these to the high divide was a mile farther on [i.e., the divide separating the north and south flow of water, generally modern highway 60. The south flow leads to White River].
The timber getting smaller and heavier as we advanced till arriving at a new town [Rogersville] in the midst of the wilderness. The forest assumed the regular timber or lumbering type; camped one fourth mile from Station. The night was cold and frosty but having plenty of wood we built a roaring camp fire and was comfortable.
Next morning Austin canvassed town and also another small town 1 & 1/2 miles to the north of the road but found them no account for business. In the afternoon we went to Fordland to which place we had
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our trunks shipped, a little new railroad town of 100 inhabitants in the midst of the forest. Here we saw a man who said he shot 2 1/2 dozen rabbits and 2 1/2 dozen quail together with one deer that day.
Next day noon being the 16th we reshipped our trunks and started on again and going through a dense forest of white oak and hickory the road following a high ridge all the way affording us a magnificent view of the surrounding country which presented the appearance of an unbroken wilderness. Lots of government land here yet we were told [available for purchase at the Springfield government land office] and some good farms might be selected, but most of the land is covered with white flinty rocks or gravel. Timber is good, also water is of best quality.
Going a quarter of a mile off from the road we camped in a grassy valley where finding lots of dry wood we built a roaring campfire. All this part of the country is covered with a heavy and tall grass like blue joint of the prairies and the land and the timber is of good quality. But water seems not as plentiful as at some other places.
Early next morning we started on again and passing through a beautiful valley with good land and some improved farms we came to Seymore [Seymour], a booming little town of 200 inhabitants situated in a good farming district, government land being mostly taken up in the vicinity.
Beyond Seymore timber smaller but thick on the ground soil of a yellow whiteish appearance, white oak and black jack timber. Went as far as Cedar Gap and camped west of town by large pond which we found covered with ducks. Here we saw a big pile of wild turkeys, ducks and rabbits waiting shipment that had been killed in the vicinity [products of market hunting for city restaurants]. It is called the best hunting locality on the road, the country around being rough, wild and mountainous.
Started early next morning. We passed through a very rough and mountainous country, the [rail]road running on top of the mountains [or on top of the water divide] all the way affording us magnificent views of the surrounding country which presented the appearance of a wild uninhabited wilderness ridge rising up with deep valleys between, over which the road often hung like a tiny thread. The mountains are covered with hickory, with oak and blackjack timber and a long jointed kind of grass which affords good pasture for cattle and sheep. A good many tracks of deer were found along the road and some oppossum and coon tracks also. A goodly lot of old log cabins without roof were seen on these mountains.
Passed Mansfield at noon, another new town of 100 inhabitants, only we found the wild pigeons numerous along here, vast flocks like clouds passing over head one after the other in quick succession [The young adventurers observed the last of the great flocks in the Ozarks. The last reported sighting of a pigeon in Missouri was 1902 and the last pigeon in America died in captivity in 1914]. Plenty of government land within five miles of the track. Good land and fine timber. Hunting good. The agent at depot told us he ships 4 and 5 deer every day from this place.
One peculiarity of the face of the country here is that vast basins or sink holes are found all over the country. The water having no outlet sinks into the ground almost as fast as it runs in. From this source comes the Mammoth Springs [Ar.] and other springs at the foot of the mountains.
East of town we found a fine valley well improved and good land. The lay of the country is not too broken for farming. The forest is well timbered and a heavy grass grows everywhere. Water good and plenty.
Mountain Grove came next. Here a heavy thunder showered with a protracted rain set in and flooded the whole country, the water running in under our bed obliged us to sit up part of the night. Starting out next day noon in search of better camping ground, we got thoroughly wet but found good camping a mile or two farther on where we dried leaves by the fire for beding, the rain having ceased. Charley shot a couple of rabbits close to camp which made us a good supper.
November 19th: Started out early next morning and passing down a good valley with quite a number of new farms and plenty of government land yet vacant, we arrived at Cabool, a booming young lumbering town where lots sell at 50 to 75 dollars apiece. Good land and good opening for business. Several sawmills are doing a lively business and lumber sells at $1.50 per hundred [feet]. Best quality timber mostly oak, hills gravelly on top, good water and good pasture. The Salem Railroad [never built] is expected to
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form a junction here. Camped 1/2 mile east of town on hills.
November 20th: Left at noon and going about six miles came to pine covered hills and going up a valley we camped in a fine grove among the pines by the crystal waters of a lively little brook, a most charming wild spot. The night was calm and pleasant and the juniper pines [cedars] contrasted with the bright light of our camp fire which lit up the dark green branches of the pines above.
November 21: Went up over the mountain this morning. We heard turkeys in the adjacent valley and going down the valley we met a large gang of them and getting within range of them I snapped at one of them but my gun missed fire and the turkeys took fright and flew. After priming my gun, I was about to pass on when a large deer jumped up close to me, but being loaded only with small shot, I let him escape without firing at him and going back to camp we saw two fox squirrels, thus proved this to be a good country for game.
The next day we passed through lots of pine the railroad owning most of it close to the road, selling it at three dollars per acre. However, plenty of government land is yet to be found a little off the road. Met a man who sighted us to a good homestead 2 112 miles from Despain Mill on Jack’s Fork [River], adjoining Squire Means and close to Sulpher Spring Club House on which 17 acres of land was under cultivation. Good water, healthy location, but we did not go to see it.
Arriving at Willow Springs, a booming town of 150 inhabitants, we camped 112 mile from town in a little valley, the night being drizzly and dark.
Next morning, weather still continued wet and misty, but we packed up and started on prefering to walk rather than stay in camp. Went as far as Burnham, a small station, and going down a little valley we camped among some white oak timber and at night thunder and lightning making itself appear and being afraid of a storm, we moved our camp out from under the trees and pitched our tent among small blackjack trees between a shower of rain.
That night a terrible cyclone devastated the country along White River tearing down everything in its pathway and killing lots of people. Land along here very gravelly, but stones being small and on top of ground, one can easily clear them off and good farms may be opened.
November 22: Went to West Plains, county seat of Howell County and camped in a heavy blackjack timber 112 mile from town. Country around town well improved, town booming with 1,500 inhabitants. Millions of wild pigeons passed us when within 4 miles of town and we shot one. They are said to roost in Ozark County.
Canvassed town and on the 29th started on again. Road running through a well improved [Howell] valley and passing several small stations, we finally arrived at Augusta [Thayer, Mo.], a lively new town where the railroad company [Kansas City, Ft. Scott and Memphis] intends to locate their round house and machine shops. Plenty of good water 4 and 5 miles out of town.
Camped in ravine south of town and after canvassing town went to Mammoth Springs [Ar.], quite a lively town close to the Mammoth Spring which is attracting considerable attention at present, it being [one of the largest spring[s] in the known world. The spring issues from the foot of the hills and discharges 65,000 cubic feet of water per minute. The spring running southeast [southwest] and forming what is known as Spring River which is on an average 3 feet deep and 200 feet wide and remarkable grass growing on the bottom of the spring and also in the stream for miles down the river which is said to grow to the enormous length of 150 feet long and cattle wade in after it and running their noses under water bringing up huge mouths full which they devour with apparent gusto. The spring is about 200 feet across and about 20 feet deep in center.
Built a boat a little below the spring finding lumber from a railroad wreck and sheet ironing on the bottom [of the river]. We set her afloat and started on down the stream which we found wild and swift running and passing over numerous jump offs and falls where the water often fell down 3 and 4 feet and we had often to get out and let the boat down by hand to keep the boat from filling with water.
We found the river full of ducks but remarkably shy to approach and found also lots of wild pigeons. Found signs of beaver and some oppossoms and coon but not enough to justify us in stopping to trap for
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them. Fishing, we are told, is good in the holes between the falls, but we did not stop to try to catch any of them. The towns along the river are small as yet but improving. The principal occupation of the inhabitants along the river is railroad tie making for the railroad which runs along the river all the way. The company paying 12 1/2 cents a piece for [the tie] cutting at the mouth of the river.
We found tracks of coon and mink quite plentiful, but passing on to lower points, we went down into Black River and camped within a mile of Black Rock [Lawrence County, Ar.]. Here we found lots of squirrels and turkeys, but signs of fur not as plenty as expected. We hitched our boat to the bank a little above the RR bridge and started out on foot.
We determined to visit Cash [Cache] River 18 miles distance [west of Jonesboro]. Walking about halfway we camped close to where the [St. Louis and] Iron Mountain Railroad crossed this road and sleeping few hours we arose and started on again determined to be at Cash River by morning. After passing wild heavily timbered country we finally arrived at Cash River a few hours before daybreak.
Arriving at the River and crossing over, we built a fire among some fallen timber. We found the River out over its banks and all through the timber which was literally alive with water fowls, they having a roosting place here. Cloud after cloud [of fowl] arose from the adjacent waters with the noise of distant thunder till the air was black with them.
They were here in countless thousands, but not finding signs of furs as plentiful as desirable, we took the first train back and arriving at Black Rock a little before dark we took some of our baggage and loosening our boat, we pulled upstream and as night settled down over the forest we stopped and lugging our baggage up the steep bank, we camped for the night which was dark and drizzley and cold.
Next morning, a cold north wind blowing, but we broke up camp and moving higher upstream, we camped on a large bottom among the cane and the following day we proceeded to put out our traps and continued day after day till we had out 75 traps, but the weather turning colder and freezing the ground, we only caught some ten or twelve furs, but finding the timber full of squirrel, we shot some 30 or 40 squirrels.
We also saw lots of wild turkeys but failed to secure any. Here we stayed til the New Year [1884].
Month |
Sold |
Expense |
Profit |
January |
47.30 |
19.84 |
28.83 |
February |
34.36 |
27.81 |
19.00 |
March |
35.41 |
24.46 |
18.02 |
April |
30.88 |
29.80 |
27.33 |
May |
113.94 |
43.99 |
50.57 |
June |
120.85 |
46.82 |
55.72 |
July |
132.40 |
35.17 |
53.16 |
August |
159.01 |
28.47 |
60.39 |
September |
142.17 |
45.72 |
53.69 |
October |
104.51 |
55.14 |
42.96 |
November |
98.10 |
57.24 |
38.78 |
December |
11.35 |
18.04 |
.65 |
Totals |
1,020.18 |
448.31 |
432.55 |
January 1884: Soon after New Year, we builded ourselves a new boat out of cypress lumber at a cost of $2.00 after which we moved two miles below Manhattan [Ar.] and camped on the west bank of the river in heavy timber and proceeded to put out our traps. The first night we caught one mink after which a heavy snow came on and covered most of our traps up so we caught nothing. We, however, shot several squirrels and rabbits which we found very plenty[ful].
January 8: Clear, cold, snow on the ground, 5 inches. Large cakes of ice going on the [Black] river. Ice froze 4 and 5 inches thick on ponds and along the margin of the river. Caught nothing last night, although we had out 75 traps. No fur running. Saw tracks of turkeys while [lacunae] traps shot one rabbit and one turkey. Turkeys roosting close to tent. Tried to shoot some in the evening, but moon shining too bright on snow, turkeys saw us and flew away.
January 9: Clear, wind southwest, turning warmer. Uncovered our traps which had been snowed under.
January 10: Warm, put out some more traps.
January 11: Caught 3 oppossum, 1 mink. Took up our traps prepatory for moving our camp.
January 12: Moved further down the river and camped in cane break about 7 miles from Powhatan [Lawrence County, Ar.] passing a little town with one store and mill, and saw mill and cotton gin combined by name of Lawrence, around which we found quite a settlement.
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January 13: Sunday. Fixed up camp and put out traps on a little creek opposite camp where we found lots of tracks among the cypress trees growing in the creek and along its margin. Shot one duck and two squirrels, heard the wolves howling in the cane break opposite side of the river all night. Weather very pleasant, snow and ice all gone.
January 14: Cloudy, slow rain all day, turning into snow in evening. Run our traps and put out some more new ones; caught nothing.
January 15: North wind, cloudy. Caught 1 mink and 1 oppossum and had a coon pulled out. Put out more traps along on adjoining bay where we found tracks quite numerous.
January 16: Weather cold and cloudy. Caught 1 mink and had 2 squirrels pulled out with logs in the traps. Shot 5 squirrels, put out more traps.
January 17: Weather turning warmer. Caught 2 coons and had 1 mink pulled out. Put out more traps.
January 18: Rain, turning warmer. Caught 1 coon and 1 duck.
January 19: Weather turning colder, wind from the north freezing. Caught 1 squirrel and no fur pulled out. Shot 2 squirrels. Gathered some walnuts which we found close to camp, any amount of large hickory nuts all around. Lots of sassafras growing all over the timber, would be a good place to make sassafrass oil. Pawpaw trees everywhere, must be a great place for pawpaws in their season.
January 20: Cold, clear, ground frozen hard. Began taking up our traps prepatory to moving farther downstream, having found this spot not as good a place as expected for trapping. In fact, we consider this river, as far as we have come, very poor ground for trapping.
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One cannot set any traps along the river at all by reason of the boats running which throw the traps by reason of the waves. They cause [the traps] to roll upon the shore and the bays are all froze up for hunting.
It is a good country. We never saw the squirrels so numerous and turkeys and ducks are plenty and we have all the wild meat we can make use of. It is a great country for hogs and one don’t need to feed them at all as the mast is amply sufficient to support and even to fatten them. We find lots of hogs running in the timber everywhere, also cattle which feed upon the cane which stays green all winter. Found one coon in our traps. Got them all taken up. Evening turning off very pleasant.
January 21: Pulled up stakes and moved on down the river going about 10 miles and camped. Passed only two houses on the way, all wild wilderness woods. Shot 1 duck in afternoon. Weather mild.
January 22: Shot 5 squirrels before breakfast. They were very numerous around our camp. Moved to the mouth of Strawberry River [northeast Independence County, Ar.] and on up the Strawberry a couple of miles where we found good signs of coon and mink. Stopping on the bank we fixed up camp. The Strawberry runs clear water and has good banks for trapping and heavy timber on its bottoms.
January 23: Put out 32 traps today along the river. Weather turning colder, wind north.
January 24: Weather very cold, sky clear, wind north. Caught 2 coons and had 2 pulled out [i.e., escaped]. Remained at home and fixed drounding [drowning] poles. Are going to set our traps to drowning poles to keep our furs from pulling out.
January 25: Weather still cold, but moderating. Caught no furs by reason of traps freezing up. Put out a few more traps. Seen a big flock of turkeys on an island above camp. Saw also some wild hogs. Four wild hog hunters visited camp today. Shot one duck and 3 squirrels. Lots of squirrels here, also ducks and turkeys. Good trapping and hunting here.
January 26: Weather moderating, but still freezing at night. Clouding up in evening with indications of snow or rain. Wolves howling last night. Caught nothing last night. Traps freezing up, put out some more traps. Went up on an island above camp and found a wild hog in a pile of cane and several old beds, but got no shot. Found a wolf den and set a couple of traps. Startled three deer on bank of river. Trapping indications good up the river, but weather too cold yet.
January 27: Cloudy with sleet and rain turning warmer. Caught 7 oppossum and 1 coon and shot 1 squirrel. Put out some more traps. Wolves howling day and night.
January 28: Warm weather. Caught nothing. Put out more traps. Shot 3 squirrels and 1 duck.
January 29: Cloudy, misty and warm. Put out more traps. Caught 1 coon. Saw several droves of wild hogs and killed one weighing about 250 pounds.
January 30: Cloudy, warm and thunder showers. Frogs hollering. Dressed our hog. Took up all our traps and made preparations to move further down the River not being able to procure salt and groceries here. Caught 3 coons and 1 oppossum. Count this a pretty good hunting and trapping country. Good duck ponds close to the river.
January 31: Started down the [Black] river early this morning. Weather pleasant and warm. Passed a small old delapidated one horse town and stopped to get some groceries, but found mighty few in town. Had to walk half a mile on logs to get to it. Passed a camp of turkey hunters and several deer [hunters] this season. Camped on a nice sand bar some distance below town who said they had killed 75 turkeys and several deer this season. Camped on a nice sand bar some distance below town where we saw lots of panther tracks.
February 1: Continued on down this River the
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day being fine. Passed several old rivers with signs of fur on them, but found them occupied by trappers. Camped close to Elgin [Elgin is on the east side of the river in Jackson County], another old riggety Negroe shanty of a town with one little store and one saw, grist, and cotton gin mill. Whole town worth ten cents if one don’t need to live in it. Found the island on which we camped alive with squirrels and lots of wild hogs all along, they having the timber all rooted up everywhere. It is a magnificent hunting country all along.
February 2: Continued on down the river today passing several old rivers with tolerable good trapping, but all occupied [by trappers]. Passed two houses on boats, one a fishing boat at the mouth of doty [Data Creek, Independence County]. Then went up the creek for a distance and found but few tracks and so continued on down the River. Saw a panther running along the bank of the river soon after leaving camp in the morning.
Arrived at mouth of [Black] river in evening and going down White River for a mile camped on a big sand bar close to Jacksonport. The water of White River is a great deal clearer than that of Black River.
February 3: Cloudy Sunday. Stayed in camp.
February 4: Went to Newport, sold our furs. 14 coon, 9 mink, 12 oppossum and 1 skunk. Got nine dollars for them. Newport is a lively town presenting Northern thrift and enterprise and is the best town on the river as far as we have come. It contains a number of saw mills and planing mills and a good business street. After buying in a new supply of groceries, we floated on a couple of miles down the river and camped on a sand bar above the [railroad] Bridge Switch.
February 5: Warm, cloudy. Started out early, but heavy showers coming on we stopped and put up our tent on sand bar during a heavy shower and got drenched to the skin. Showers accompanied by heavy thunder continued all day and we had a wet time of it.
To be continued.
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